Looking for MK3 VR6 or MK2 16V or VR6
I have had this car since 2009 and am ready for something different. Over the summer it got a fresh OBD1 ABA engine that I rebuilt with new everything including all new ARP hardware. Just had a new 6-puck sprung clutch disc and matching pressure plate as well when I put the new motor in it. The motor is solid and wont need anything for a long time. I am just missing my VR GTI and was probing interest to see if anyone would want a boosted ABA for their VR6. The biggest difference I noticed between this car and my GTI is this car is hands down faster... even putting around low end power seemed peppier right away than my VR6 that had a set of mild cams. I know I will be getting into a slower car I just miss my VR singing to me on the interstate.
I will be as honest as possible with the description. The shell of this car has around 214K miles but the engine is a freshly rebuild OBD1 block ABA with a german casting OBD2 ABA head with TT dual valve spring upgrade and ARP hardware. I put the turbo stuff together from scratch in 2009 and everything has been bulletproof. The turbo is watercooled and I have never had any trouble with anything. The shell has had new front wheel bearings in 2009 and all the little things like new pads and new axles and motor/tranny mounts. The car is getting some rust underneath and it has a couple dents and I never did have the Trek bike rack for it but it is a Trek edition. The tires were new in 2010 and still have a good bit of life left in them. The tranny was changed in the summer when I put the rebuilt engine in it because the reverse gear was going out and the replacement I put in it is fine except I noticed recently in cold weather it whines in 5th at low speeds until it gets warmed up but once the gear oil is warmed up it is fine. Never noticed any noise in the summer and it only does it when it is cold out. Put fresh 90wt gear oil in it when I put it in and it doesn't leak a drop anywhere. Also has USRT delrin shift linkage bushings and Neuspeed short shift kit with shortened shifter rod which makes the throw even shorter. The car has no AC and I deleted the AC compressor with a VR6 water pump pulley and shorter belt so the water pump is now driven off the serpentine belt.
Its tuned on megasquirt and I have been tweaking the tuning on it since 2009 and it runs like a champ. I am getting roughly 130 miles on 4 gallons of fuel and thats with the cruising air fuel ratio at 14.7-15:1 and it can be taken leaner at cruise if you wanted to but I prefer the 14.7-15 range at cruise. In boost it is a safe 11:1. The car starts everyday even in the cold winters here in ohio. I did away with the distributor and the car is running what is called wasted spark distributor-less ignition with a set of Diamond Star Motors (DSM) coil packs and MK4 2.0 Bosch plug wires. The distributor is still there but it is not used except to drive the oil pump. It has a TT dizzy bushing and a MK2 4 window dizzy from when I had the old motor running off the dizzy. The car also has launch control which can be set to fuel cut or spark cut or both but I always use fuel cut on boosted engines since its safer on the turbo but spark cut will make it shoot flames and all that good stuff though I wouldn't advise doing it all the time. I will go through all the tuning stuff with you if you are not familiar with mega-squirt.
Interior wise it has sparco aluminum pedals which I think are far superior to the stock rubber pads your feet cant slip off as easy and there is more pedal surface for your feet. It will come with the AEM wideband and all the gauges but I want to keep the silver gauge panel and I will be installing the factory center console where the cd player goes unless you like the gauge setup I have in it now. It has the Trek edition seats with NO RIPS or tears. The cd player location is currently in the lower center console cup holder area but can be put back to the original location. I would prefer to keep my cd player if you already own one that you want to keep as well. It has manual window that all work as well. Everything inside the car works except for the cruise control and AC since the stock ecu isnt running the car and the AC stuff is all taken off.
It currently has full 2.5" exhaust pipe with a long 2.5" glasspack exiting the driver side just before the rear tire. I am picky about how exhaust sounds and messed around with it welding it different ways until I got it to sound good and not drone on the highway. The note says it definitely isn't stock and it is very drivable on the interstate. It is bolted to the downpipe with stainless bolts and antisieze so the bolts will come out easy and the whole system unbolts into two pieces with a two bolt flange in the rear and a three bolt flange up front and comes right off the car.
Engine description:
Completely rebuilt in May 2011
ARP Headstuds
ARP Mainstuds
ARP Rod bolts
Techtonics HD dual valve springs
Techtonics chrome moly retainers
Techtonics chrome moly lower spring seats
New gaskets everywhere
New waterpump
New bearings everywhere
New oil pump
160* Thermostat (have a 180* I can include as well but I like the 160* better for summer)
forged OBD1 crank
factory pistons and rods
OBD1 block with piston cooling jets
stock cam since its boosted
Alternator rebuilt in 2009
VR6 waterpump pulley and shorter serpentine belt that deletes the AC compressor
Has Techtonics Dizzy bushing and 4 window dizzy installed but it runs off of the 60-2 crank trigger
Trans-axle:
New 6 puck sprung clutch and pressure plate
Neuspeed short shifter
USRT delrin shifter bushings
manual clutch cable
Turbo Kit Specs:
Megasquirt V3.0 running on 60-2 wasted spark
Mitsubishi DSM coilpacks
440cc Bosch Green Tops
GT3040 ebay turbo (water cooled and been on the car since 2009. Checked it out and still in same shape it was when I put it on the car minus the rust on the exhaust side)
Full 2.5" aluminum IC pipe
2.5" inlet/outlet FMIC
Greddy type S BOV
38mm external wastegate
Manual boost controller
Suspension:
Bilstien heavy duty struts and shocks
Eibach sportline spring kit (the red ones)
New strut mounts and bearings up front
Wheels:
Factory tiny 14" alloy wheels
Toyo Proxes 185-45-R14s I believe (little scateboard wheels, it def needs bigger tires)
Interior Extras:
AEM UEGO Wideband
Autometer Ultra Lite boost gauge
Autometer Ultra Lite bar oil pressure gauge
panel has room for 3 more gauges
The bad:
-No AC (compressor and condenser have been taken off the car)
-Has a few dents common on a car this old
-Needs ebrake cables
-Could use a front end alignment
-Has a small hole rusted through on the drivers side of the car. Didn't know this until a couple weeks ago.
-Its a great car the shell is just starting to show its age.
-The PO of the car had the front fenders rolled and the fenders were never repainted under neath.
-Shouldn't have any problems passing emissions but where I live we have no emissions checks so I have never had to have it checked. It has no check engine light bulb since the stock ecu isnt even on the car and the OBD2 port doesn't work since the stock ecu isn't even on the car. All the tuning is done via serial cable plug on the megasquirt ecu unit.
The good:
-Gets great fuel economy.
-Faster than my old GTI VR6
-Has textures side moldings that don't fall off as easy
-Rear fender flares (also have front ones but they are not put on currently)
-Fresh rebuilt motor
-Manual windows that all work
-Tires still have good bit of tread on them
-Aftermarket front grill
I have explained everything about the car I can think of. PM or email me any questions. I love this car and have a lot of time into it. I dont need to get rid of it until the right deal comes along and both parties walk away happy.
As mentioned I am looking for a VR6 GTI or GLX that doesn't burn oil and would prefer the timing chains have been changed. Would also be interested in a MK2 with a 16V or VR6 swap. This car runs perfect and I don't want to trade for something I am going to have to put in my garage and work on to drive. I had a 95 tornado red GTI before and would like something similar. Would prefer something in Ohio or PA but we will see what happens.
The top pictures are newer while some of the lower ones are from a couple years ago.
Posts
