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?? Orly? Well I think that might be a legit enough warning, lemme explain.
My 97 TL was dying on me while driving. I made a post on here before asking advice but thats a moot point now. Like I said, car would just shut off and refuse to start back up. Put it on a jump box or battery charger and it would start right up...
Anyway my first checkup was the electrical system. I took it to pep boys (mistake) and had them run an electrical health check. Everything is A-OK, or so I thought. Well after car dies 3 times I start to really dig in. First thing was me checking the Alternator output myself. I think the alt is supposed to be able to keep everything electrical (and charge the batt) under its own power. I know the battery can act as a buffer / basic voltage normalizer in a small way but thats not related to what I'm looking into.
I unhooked the battery while the car idles, it stays on. I hit the brakes and the interior lights dim and the rpm's drop then raise to normalize. I then turned on the AC, car died.
I repeated the process but with heat this time, car almost dies. I then put on the headlight and got some weird feedback in the speakers and the fuel pump sounded stressed. I hit the brakes and the car dies.... See a trend...
My understanding is nothing should happen at all if your car has a functioning alternator for the load given. I say it like that because I use an OEM alt and everything electrical in the car (sans a iPod/iphone direct connect to the factory radio) is stock.
Post install, the car no longer shuts off while battery unattached no matter what I have turned on. I put on the AC, low beams wi/ fogs, opened all windows and sunroof at once while blasting some dub step and the rpms didn't even flinch.
One issue I have now is a damn CEL. Something about an o2 sensor:bang head: Car runs fine despite the code. I thought it was a fluke at first so I removed the code.... only for it to come back again:mad: You don't think I damaged anything, do you?
My 97 TL was dying on me while driving. I made a post on here before asking advice but thats a moot point now. Like I said, car would just shut off and refuse to start back up. Put it on a jump box or battery charger and it would start right up...
Anyway my first checkup was the electrical system. I took it to pep boys (mistake) and had them run an electrical health check. Everything is A-OK, or so I thought. Well after car dies 3 times I start to really dig in. First thing was me checking the Alternator output myself. I think the alt is supposed to be able to keep everything electrical (and charge the batt) under its own power. I know the battery can act as a buffer / basic voltage normalizer in a small way but thats not related to what I'm looking into.
I unhooked the battery while the car idles, it stays on. I hit the brakes and the interior lights dim and the rpm's drop then raise to normalize. I then turned on the AC, car died.
I repeated the process but with heat this time, car almost dies. I then put on the headlight and got some weird feedback in the speakers and the fuel pump sounded stressed. I hit the brakes and the car dies.... See a trend...
My understanding is nothing should happen at all if your car has a functioning alternator for the load given. I say it like that because I use an OEM alt and everything electrical in the car (sans a iPod/iphone direct connect to the factory radio) is stock.
Post install, the car no longer shuts off while battery unattached no matter what I have turned on. I put on the AC, low beams wi/ fogs, opened all windows and sunroof at once while blasting some dub step and the rpms didn't even flinch.
One issue I have now is a damn CEL. Something about an o2 sensor:bang head: Car runs fine despite the code. I thought it was a fluke at first so I removed the code.... only for it to come back again:mad: You don't think I damaged anything, do you?
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